Invited to speak at The Dappertude Event in Melbourne this month afforded George & King the opportunity to speak about what Australia’s premier custom suit company does best.  

Our presentation, titled ‘The Art of Tailoring’, was delivered to a group of well-dressed men and women in Melbourne, the fashion capital of Australia. We thought it was only fair we share the knowledge with our loyal clients also.

Made-to-Measure doesn't just guarantee the perfect fit, it offers you the opportunity to design a garment that reflects your individual personality. The term custom refers to the ability to modify aspects of your suit and add your own special touches - collar style, stitching colours, buttons, pocket configuration, etc...

 

Successful custom suiting is all about the Three F's: The fit, the fabric, and the function.

 

THE FIT


How can you improve the fit of your garments?

 

Think about how you like to wear your clothes? Do you like to feel your clothes on or not?

Typically suits are offered in slim, super slim and classic fits. The trend at the moment is leaning more towards the tapered slim tailored trouser, fitted shirt and slim-line slightly shorter jacket. The benefit with MTM is that the measurements can be amended to suit your personal preference and body type.

The canvassing choice also effects the fit and the feel of the garment. A canvassed suit jacket has layers of canvassing material, traditionally comprised of wool and horsehair that sits between the outer suit fabric and the inner lining of the suit jacket. This allows the jacket to keep its structure and shape and mould to your body over time. It also reduces crumpling and ensures durability.  Canvassed suit jackets tend to fall better on the body due to the slightly heavier weight (you can still wear it in the summer it is not an overcoat weight).

Ask your tailor if they use a fused canvas. A fused jacket has a fusible interlining that’s glued to the wool shell of the suit – both in the front panels and in the lapels. Fusing the jacket gives the jacket shape, but doesn’t mould to the wearer, so it may lack the nice, natural drape of canvassed jackets. Poorly fused jackets can bubble over time – this occurs when the fusible interlining comes apart from the suit fabric.

When it comes to jacket structure, there are 3 options:

Full Canvas: A full-canvassed suit jacket is one that is constructed with canvas fabric spanning the entire inside front panels and lapels of the jacket.

Half Canvas: You get the benefits of the natural drape and shape that canvas provides where the suit needs it the most—the chest and the lapel. However, it may be slightly stiffer than a full-canvassed jacket. You can test this on your jackets at home by pinching between the buttonholes with one finger on each side and see if you can feel a layer of fabric between the inner lining and the outer suit fabric.

Un-structured: No canvasing. The creates a jacket that is a hybrid between a blazer and a suit jacket.

 

THE FABRIC


 The benefit of using only natural fabrics.

 

We recommend always buying pure-wool. Perfect for warmer climates like Australia, as it actually draws moisture away from the skin and sends it out into the atmosphere. On cooler days the wool acts like a layer of insulation between your overcoat and shirt.

A higher super refers to the weave and composition of the wool. A higher rating generally means a softer more luxurious wool with a more delicate weave. It also means it will be more fragile. For the corporate/business suit a 110 or a 120 should be used, worn no more than twice a week to ensure durability and keep the 130 and 150 keep for special occasions, as these will wear out faster.

 

THE FUNCTION


Customising your suit to the occasion.

 

The Formal Occasion. 
Dinner Party, Wedding, Award Ceremony.

A formal occasion does not necessarily call for a dinner suit. There are style choices you can opt for to ensure your look still fits in to a ‘formal’ dress code

Peak Lapel: A peak lapel refers to the edges of your lapel pointing towards your shoulders. It adds width to the shoulders and creates an illusion of being taller as it draws the gaze upwards. The peak lapels are traditionally considered the most formal of lapels, this is because it is the most intricate lapel to tailor. Peak lapels also look great with checked patterns or pinstripes

Shawl Lapel: A shawl lapel is a curved lapel without any breaks or points. This lapel is common place on tuxedos. I wouldn’t advise wearing it to the office.

One Button: A one button elongates the lapel and looks great for formal occasions.

No Vent: An Italian Look. Very Smart.

 

The Business Suit
All work, no play.

Notch Lapel: A notch lapel is when the bottom of the collar of the jacket and the top of the lapel connect at a 90 degree angle. This lapel suits all body types, and is a reliable "go to".

Slim Notch Lapel:  A good option if you have slimmer shoulders a. Not as wide horizontally as a standard notch. It’s a good option if you're going for a more modern look.

Two Buttons: The norm. A benefit of the two-button jacket can make you seem a little taller.

Three Buttons: Reserved for taller clients. Six foot three+.

One Vent: A single vent in the centre of the jacket. This is a better option for slimmer clients, as the jacket will hug your torso and provide a more tapered look.

Two Vents: A vent on either side of the jacket. The most common option and the best for most clients. If you're a little big bigger, or have a big behind, this will be the most comfortable option.

 

Suiting Trends.

 Suit styles change each season – to keep your look fresh clash texture and shade of colour in the fabrics that you choose. You do not always have to wear a matching suit. Just make sure the colours go together and be very careful if you are print clashing. But don’t be scared to go bold.

 For more information on sartorial style visit a George & King showroom for an consultation with one of our style concierge team today.